Saif Abu Qdameh is a young Palestinian, the fourth generation since the Nakba, proudly upholding his family’s legacy of crafting traditional Hummus and Falafel. These dishes are not just staples of Palestinian cuisine; they are cherished emblems of cultural identity and community. Hummus, with its creamy texture and rich flavors, and falafel, known for its crispy exterior and savory interior, are shared among friends and family, symbolizing hospitality and unity.
This culinary art was what Sa’adat Abu Qdameh, Saif’s great-grandfather, excelled in back in his hometown of Lod until July 1948. On July 11th, during the holy month of Ramadan, the same hands that once skillfully blended chickpeas and spices were forced to clutch the belongings that could be carried on a sudden, desperate exodus. Zionist militias intensively raided Lod with warplanes, killing 426 men, women and children in a local mosque and its vicinity. Two days later, on July 13th, around 70,000 residents from Lod and Ramle were forced to leave on a harrowing journey to Ramallah.
As an Israeli military aircraft patrolled the skies at a low elevation, the urgency among the people below intensified. The presence of armed soldiers, broadcasting urgent warnings through loudspeakers, compelled the Palestinian residents, uncertain of their destination, to hasten their departure to evade the fate that befell those at the mosque. The backbreaking trek claimed many lives due to dehydration and exhaustion. Amidst this chaos, Sa’adat miraculously survived and found refuge in Ramallah, carrying with him the culinary traditions that were a testament to his community’s resilience and hope.
Years of hardship followed as Sa’adat struggled to rebuild his life in Ramallah, supporting his family and coping with the trauma of displacement. Yet, he yearned to return to his passion for creating the flavors of his homeland. In 1952, he realized this dream by opening a modest eatery in the old town of Ramallah, which he named Al-Zohour Restaurant, locally known as Abu Jamal’s, located at Al-Sahel Street, behind Jaber Gas Station.At Al-Zohour, everything is prepared fresh and served with care. The restaurant quickly became a local favorite, drawing people from across the city and neighboring villages to savor the uniquely shaped falafel, creamy hummus drizzled with olive oil, and foul mudammas (mashed fava beans). Sa’adat’s secret ingredient was always authenticity, a quality he passed down through the generations.
The craft of making these traditional dishes was handed down from Sa’adat to his son Ahmad, and then to Mohannad, Saif’s father. Today, Saif and Mohannad continue to run the restaurant, maintaining the tradition of serving freshly made dishes.
Visitors to Al-Zohour are immediately immersed in its rich history. The walls, over a century old, are adorned with framed photographs of the family generations who have worked there and old receipts that tell a story of resilience and tradition. Guests are greeted with the warm hospitality that is characteristic of Palestinian culture, and they leave with a taste of history that is both delicious and meaningful.
As the sun sets on another day in Ramallah, the enduring spirit of Al-Zohour Restaurant stands as a beacon of tradition in a rapidly changing world. Saif, with a heart full of dreams and hands skilled in the art of his ancestors, is committed to preserving the rich culinary heritage that has been the cornerstone of his family’s legacy. By meticulously maintaining the traditional recipes and methods of preparation passed down through generations, Saif ensures that every dish served is a timeless story of culture and continuity. It is this unwavering dedication to tradition that promises to carry Al-Zohour into the future, inviting visitors to not only taste the flavors of history but to become a part of its ongoing narrative.
Leave a Reply